Durrës Travel Guide — Albania's Ancient Port City

# Durrës Travel Guide — Albania's Ancient Port City Durrës is one of the oldest cities in Albania, founded as Epidamnos by Greek colonists in 627 BC. The Romans called it Dyrrachium and built it into a major Adriatic port. Traces of that history are everywhere — a 2nd-century amphitheatre sits in the middle of a residential neighbourhood, Byzantine walls line the hillside, and a Venetian watchtower guards the harbour entrance. The city is also Albania's most accessible beach destination. Just 35 kilometres west of Tirana, connected by a fast highway, Durrës draws the capital's residents every summer weekend. The beach stretches 10 kilometres south of the port — the longest uninterrupted sand beach in Albania. ## Getting to Durrës ### From Tirana The fastest connection in Albania. The SH2 highway covers the 35 kilometres in about 30-35 minutes by car. Buses and furgons depart from the Tirana Western Bus Station every 15-20 minutes, costing 150-200 ALL. The train from Tirana Station takes about 45 minutes (80 ALL) — one of the few functioning rail routes in the country. ### From the Airport Mother Teresa Airport (TIA) is roughly equidistant between Tirana and Durrës. A taxi to Durrës takes about 30 minutes and costs 2,500-3,500 ALL. Some hotels arrange airport transfers. ### From Italy Durrës is Albania's main ferry port. Routes connect to Bari (8-9 hours, from €40 one-way) and Ancona (18-20 hours, from €55). Adria Ferries and Ventouris Ferries operate the services. Night crossings are standard — board in the evening, arrive early morning. ## What to See ### Roman Amphitheatre Built in the 2nd century AD during the reign of Emperor Trajan, this amphitheatre once seated up to 20,000 spectators — making it the largest amphitheatre in the Balkans. It was rediscovered in 1966 when a resident was digging foundations for a house. Today about one-third of the structure has been excavated, with the rest still buried beneath residential buildings. Inside the tunnels (vomitoria), you can see a 10th-century Byzantine chapel with rare early Christian wall paintings. Entrance: 400 ALL. Allow 1-1.5 hours. The amphitheatre is on the UNESCO tentative list for World Heritage status. ### Byzantine Forum Wall Running along the hillside above the amphitheatre, remnants of the Byzantine-era city wall include circular towers and gates. The wall dates from the 5th-6th century and originally enclosed the upper city. Walk along it for good views over the port area. ### Venetian Tower (Torre Veneziane) A 15th-century watchtower at the harbour entrance, built when Venice controlled Durrës as a key Adriatic trade post. The cylindrical tower now houses a small café at ground level. Climb to the top for a view of the port, the beach stretching south, and cargo ships in the harbour. ### Archaeological Museum Albania's largest archaeological museum, located near the waterfront. Collections span from prehistoric Illyrian artefacts through Greek, Roman and Byzantine periods. The mosaic section is particularly impressive — several large floor mosaics recovered from Roman villas in the Durrës region. Entrance: 500 ALL. Allow 1-2 hours. ### King Mosque (Xhamia e Mbretit) A 15th-century mosque in the old town centre, one of the oldest in Albania. Simple exterior with a single minaret. The interior features painted geometric patterns. Open outside prayer times. ### Fatih Mosque Near the amphitheatre, this 15th-century mosque was built shortly after the Ottoman conquest. It features a distinctive stone minaret with a hexagonal base. ## The Beaches ### Durrës Main Beach The city beach extends about 10 kilometres south from the port area. The northern sections (Plazhi i Vjetër — Old Beach) are the most developed, with wall-to-wall sunbed operators, beach bars, hotels and restaurants. Sunbed rental: 500-800 ALL per set. The sand is fine and golden-brown, the water shallow for 50-100 metres out — making it excellent for families with children. The downside: in July-August, the most popular sections are extremely crowded. Further south (toward Golem and Kavajë), the beach becomes progressively quieter and cleaner. If you have a car, drive 5-10 minutes south for a more relaxed experience. ### Currila Beach On the north side of the Durrës headland, Currila is a small rocky beach with dramatically clear water. It is more popular with locals who prefer swimming over sunbathing. Access is via a steep path or stairs from the road above. No sunbed operators — bring a towel and sit on the rocks. The snorkelling here is surprisingly good. ## Day Trips ### Cape of Rodon (Kepi i Rodonit) About 30 kilometres north, this rocky peninsula juts into the Adriatic and holds the ruins of a 15th-century castle built by Skanderbeg (Gjergj Kastrioti), Albania's national hero. The road is rough for the final 5 kilometres — a high-clearance car or patience is needed. The cape itself is wild and largely undeveloped, with a small church and the castle ruins overlooking the sea. Pack water and snacks. ### Tirana At just 35 minutes away, Tirana makes an easy day trip. Visit Skanderbeg Square, the National History Museum, Blloku neighbourhood for cafés and shopping, and the Grand Park. Return to Durrës for a beach sunset. ### Krujë One hour north, the town of Krujë sits dramatically on a mountainside. The Skanderbeg Museum (inside the castle) tells the story of Albania's resistance to the Ottoman Empire. The old bazaar below sells traditional crafts, especially wool rugs and copper items. Entrance to the museum: 300 ALL. ## Where to Eat **Zgara Korçare**, near the amphitheatre, is a no-frills grill house serving some of the best qofte (meatballs, 300 ALL) and grilled lamb chops (700 ALL) in the city. Plastic chairs, paper tablecloths, and perfect food. **Restorant Vila Belvedere**, on the hill above the port, offers upscale seafood dining with panoramic views. Grilled fish 2,500-3,500 ALL per kilo, octopus carpaccio 800 ALL. Reserve for dinner in summer. **Rruga e Peshkut** (Fish Street) — a cluster of seafood restaurants along the waterfront road near the old beach. Most display their fish on ice outside. Point at what you want, negotiate the price (typically 2,000-3,500 ALL per kilo), and it arrives grilled within 20 minutes. **Bar Torra**, inside the Venetian Tower, is primarily a coffee and drinks spot but the location is unbeatable. Macchiato 120 ALL, beer 200-300 ALL. ## Where to Stay ### Budget (Under €30/night) Small hotels and apartments along the beach road south of the port. Functional rooms with air conditioning, often with sea views from upper floors. Quality varies — check recent reviews. ### Mid-Range (€30-60/night) Hotel Nais, named after the ancient name for Durrës, offers reliable mid-range rooms near the old beach. Hotel Aragosta has a popular restaurant and a central waterfront location. ### Beachfront (€60-120/night) Several resort-style hotels south toward Golem have direct beach access, pools and all-inclusive options. Hotel Sandy Beach and Hotel Lura are among the better-reviewed options. Prices peak in July-August. ## Practical Information **Getting around:** The old town and amphitheatre area is compact and walkable. Beach access requires a 10-15 minute walk from the centre or a local bus/taxi. Taxis anywhere within the city cost 300-500 ALL. **ATMs and banking:** Readily available in the city centre and along the main beach road. Most hotels and larger restaurants accept credit cards. Beach bars and small eateries often require cash. **Traffic warning:** The Tirana-Durrës highway can be heavily congested on summer Friday afternoons (outbound) and Sunday evenings (return). Allow extra time or travel off-peak. **Swimming safety:** The main beach is shallow and generally safe. The area near the port should be avoided for swimming due to boat traffic. Lifeguards are present at some organised beach sections but not everywhere. **Download offline maps** using the Dyqani app. While Durrës itself has good mobile coverage, signal can be patchy along the Cape of Rodon road and in some inland areas. ## Why Visit Durrës Durrës works best for visitors who want beach time without straying far from civilisation. Unlike the Riviera — which requires mountain driving and limited infrastructure — Durrës has everything within reach: history, beaches, restaurants and transport connections. It is not Albania's most dramatic destination, but it may be its most practical.