Gjirokastër: The City of Stone — UNESCO Heritage Guide

Why Visit Gjirokastër?

Gjirokastër (Gjirokastra) is Albania's other UNESCO World Heritage city, inscribed alongside Berat in 2008. Known as the "City of Stone" (Qyteti i Gurit), it's characterized by its massive Ottoman-era tower houses (kulla) built from the same gray stone as the hillside they perch upon. The city is also the birthplace of former dictator Enver Hoxha and Albania's most famous author, Ismail Kadare.

Located in southern Albania near the Greek border, Gjirokastër sits at an elevation of 300 meters in the Drino Valley, overlooked by the imposing Gjirokastër Castle — one of the largest in the Balkans.

Gjirokastër Castle

The castle dominates the city skyline. Dating from the 12th century with additions through the Ottoman period, it's one of the largest castles in the Balkans. Inside you'll find:

• Military Museum: Houses captured weapons, including a US Air Force plane from the Cold War era (an AT-6 Texan that made an emergency landing in Albania in 1957).
• Festival stage: The castle's courtyard hosts the National Folklore Festival (Festival Folklorik Kombëtar), held every 5 years — one of Albania's most important cultural events.
• Clock Tower: Climb for panoramic views of the Drino Valley.
• Ottoman-era prison: Used as a political prison during the communist regime.

Entry: 400 ALL (€3.25).

The Old Town & Bazaar

Gjirokastër's old town is a labyrinth of steep, cobblestone streets lined with the distinctive tower houses. The Ottoman Bazaar (Pazari i Vjetër) was rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1811 and has been restored as a marketplace for local crafts, souvenirs, and traditional products.

Key sites:

• Skenduli House: A beautifully restored 18th-century tower house open to visitors. Shows the interior life of wealthy Ottoman-era families. Entry: 200 ALL.
• Zekate House: Another grand tower house, perched on the hillside with excellent views. Entry: 200 ALL.
• Ismail Kadare House Museum: The childhood home of Albania's most celebrated writer, whose novels "The General of the Dead Army" and "Chronicle in Stone" (set in Gjirokastër during WWII) brought Albanian literature to the world stage.

Cold War Tunnel

Beneath the castle lies a Cold War-era tunnel complex built by the communist regime as a nuclear bunker. Recently opened to the public, it offers a fascinating glimpse into Albania's paranoid isolation during the Hoxha years. The tunnels are well-preserved with original equipment.

Local Cuisine

Gjirokastër has its own culinary traditions, influenced by both Albanian and Greek cooking:

• Oshaf: A sweet dessert made from dried figs and sheep's milk — unique to Gjirokastër.
• Pite me lakra: Savory pie with wild greens, a southern Albanian specialty.
• Qifqi: Rice balls seasoned with herbs, fried until crispy — Gjirokastër's signature dish.

Getting to Gjirokastër

From Tirana: 4–4.5 hours by car or bus. Regular buses from South Terminal, approximately 1,500 ALL (€12).

From Sarandë: 1 hour by car. Easy to combine both destinations.

From Berat: 3 hours. Both UNESCO cities make a great combined trip.

From Greece: The Kakavijë border crossing is 30 km south. Buses run from Ioannina, Greece.

Practical Tips

• The cobblestone streets are beautiful but treacherous in rain — wear shoes with good grip.
• Most of the old town is uphill from the main road — take it slowly.
• The city is quieter and more traditional than Tirana or Berat. Respect local customs.
• Best time to visit: Spring and autumn for comfortable temperatures. Summer can be very hot (35°C+).
• Find accommodation and local services on Dyqani.app.